WHERE TO STAY IN EDINBURGH

How do you even start to pick a place to stay in Edinburgh?  The hotel options are truly countless. In Edinburgh, we recommend choosing a hotel close to the main sites, for wonderful walks in the city, especially if you won’t have a car while in the city.

For this itinerary three options are:

IBIS EDINBURGH CENTRE ROYAL MILE $ – If you are looking for a budget-friendly hotel in the heart of historic Edinburgh you can’t go wrong with this option. The hotel is located right off the Royal Mile and is only a 10-minute walk to Edinburgh Castle. It offers guests a lively bar, bright and spacious rooms, and a breakfast buffet is available with coffee, pastries, and fruit to get your day off to a great start.

BOOK YOUR STAY:  Direct with Hotel  |  Hotels.com  |  Booking.com  |  Trip Advisor

HOTEL INDIGO $$ – For a boutique hotel with stylish and modern rooms in the vibrant city centre, the Hotel Indigo is a great option. Theatre-goers will like its proximity to the Edinburgh Playhouse Theatre, and everyone will enjoy its location near St. Andrew’s Square and Calton Hill. For amenities, the hotel offers guests flat-screen TV, iPod docks, and media hub in the room and a fitness centre. The on-site Turquoise Thistle Restaurant, Bar and Lounge offers classic Scottish dishes, international cuisine, freshly brewed coffee, and traditional whiskies. There is also parking nearby (on request) if you have a car.

BOOK YOUR STAY:  Direct with Hotel  |  Hotels.com  |  Booking.com  |  Trip Advisor

MACDONALD HOLYROOD HOTEL & SPA $$$ – A taste of luxury, this hotel offers guests classic marble and wood decor, majestic views of the Crags and Arthur’s Seat, and warm and elegant rooms. Located near the new Parliament Building the Holyrood Palace and Abbey is only a short walk away and Edinburgh Castle is about 20 minutes away at the other end of the Royal Mile. It may be hard to get out for exploring though as the hotel also offers a fitness centre, pool, sauna, steam room and an award-winning restaurant. For those spending a couple of days in Edinburgh, it is worth looking into their City Break packages for a great Scottish getaway. On-site parking is also available if you have a car.

BOOK YOUR STAY:  Direct with Hotel  |  Hotels.com  |  Booking.com  |  Trip Advisor

If, like us, you prefer the comforts of home while on the road, an Airbnb might be ideal for you. We booked a great little house on the outskirts of Edinburgh for our trip. It was cosy, with thoughtful hosts that provided a little breakfast/snack basket for our stay, and had on-site parking since we had brought a car. We’d recommend staying here or click to see what else is available in Edinburgh.

HOW TO GET AROUND EDINBURGH

THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN EDINBURGH

EDINBURGH CASTLE

Undoubtedly the most remarkable attraction in the city, most visitors to Edinburgh will at some point visit Edinburgh Castle. It was certainly high on our list of places to visit (like the million+ other visitors per year) and with good reason; it is jam-packed with so many things we love! Set atop a craggy outcrop, Edinburgh Castle is a cluster of museums, militaria, chapels, cannons, vaults, prisons, the Scottish Crown Jewels, all with an amazing view of the whole city.

The castle dates back to the 7th century, but the rocky hill it sits upon has seen action longer than that and is the very reason for Edinburgh’s existence. The hill was the most easily defended hilltop on the invasion route between England and central Scotland, which was a route followed by many armies from the Romans in the 1st and 2nd centuries AD to the Jacobite troops of Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745.

Edinburgh Castle has been the setting of many major historical events in Scotland. Perhaps most known is that Mary, Queen of Scots once lived here and gave birth to her son, James VI, in the Royal Apartments. He later went on to unite the crowns of England and Scotland in 1603.

When visiting be sure to look for the following spots of interest: the Entrance Gateway, the Portcullis Gate, St. Margaret’s Chapel, the Scottish National War Memorial, the Great Hall, the Stone of Destiny, and the Royal Apartments. Every building has a unique story, which is told on the audio guide if you decided to purchase one. We chose not to, so instead read the information available or asked one of the knowledgeable guides if we had a question.

If you have time, they also do a lovely afternoon tea with scones, clotted cream and jam at a little café just outside the area where they shoot the cannon each day.

TIP: To beat the inevitable crowds and soak up the atmosphere of the ancient buildings, it is best to get to the castle as earlier as possible. Also to avoid the ticket line, you can buy your tickets in advance from various sources. We did this and it really paid off. Not only did we skip the ticket line, but we were their very first visitors of the new year and they gave us a gift of a Scotland calendar and shortbread!

PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE AND ABBEY

At the far end of the Royal Mile from Edinburgh Castle, with the beautiful backdrop of Arthur’s Seat, is the Palace of Holyroodhouse and its Abbey. This stately building developed from a guesthouse that was attached to Holyroodhouse Abbey when it was extended by King James IV in 1501. The oldest surviving part of the building is the northwestern tower which was built in 1529 as a royal apartment for James V and his wife, Mary of Guise.

It is the royal family’s official residence in Scotland but it is most famous as the 16th-century home of the ill-fated Mary, Queen of Scots. On the guided tour, visitors can see her bedchamber, along with other royal apartments, with the tour ending in the Great Gallery which houses 89 portraits of Scottish kings.

Also very worth a visit is the ruins of the 13th-century abbey which features stunning and intricate details carved in the stones covered in moss and decay from the centuries. This is a great photo location, especially when the rain breaks and parts of it are bathed in the late afternoon winter sun, as we saw on our visit.

TIP: The Queen uses the palace when she has official engagements in Scotland so it is closed to the public when the Royal Family is visiting. It is best to check their website before your visit to ensure it will be open to visitors. Also please note that photography is not permitted inside the Palace, even for non-commercial purposes. 

WALK THE ROYAL MILE

The Royal Mile is Edinburgh’s oldest and most famous street that runs for about a mile from Edinburgh Castle, at the top of the hill, to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, at the bottom of the hill. For hundreds of years, the entire city of Edinburgh lived along this cobblestone street. It is the high street of the Old Town and is a bustling attraction in and of itself with shops, restaurants, cafés, churches and museums all along its length.

We definitely recommend taking your time walking the whole mile to see what you see, especially in the little alleyways and side streets called “closes”, which were basically small gated communities in centuries past. The most famous is the 17th-century Mary King’s Close, with other notable closes such as Dunbar Close, Advocates Close, and White Horse Close. Some of the best, if not the eeriest, stories can be found in these dark little alleyways.

There is always something happening along the Royal Mile, especially as you get closer to the castle. It is lively and you will really feel like you are in the centre of a bustling, vibrant city. On any given day you might come across some street theatre to fire-throwing bagpipers (and regular bagpipers) to put you in a Scottish mood.

TIP: For a great view along the Royal Mile, climb to the top of St. Giles Cathedral for just £6.00! 

GO ABOARD THE ROYAL YACHT BRITANNIA

The Royal Yacht Britannia is the much-loved vessel which transported Britain’s royal family on 900 voyages before being retired in 1997. Since that time it has been moored at Leith’s Ocean Terminal about 15 minutes outside of the Edinburgh city centre. it is the last yacht in a long line of royal yachts that stretches back to 1660.

Queen Elizabeth II, who enjoyed the ship for more than 40 years, said, “This is the only place I can truly relax.”. The Sunny Lounge, just off the back Veranda Deck, was her favourite spot and today visitors can see this spot on the ship for themselves. The tour, which includes a 90-minute audioguide, takes visitors through the bedrooms of the Queen and Prince Phillip, the state dining room (which is decorated with gifts by the ship’s many noteworthy guests), and the drawing room. It also gives a peek into the crew’s quarters (for the crew of 200!) and the engine room.

We’d also recommend an afternoon tea in the Royal Deck Tea Room. We really enjoyed the scones with cream and jam partway through our visit because it was a delicious way to warm up on a chilly day with great views.

TIP: We highly recommend purchasing your tickets in advance, either as part of a combo ticket or directly on the Royal Yacht Britannia website. This will save you waiting in the ticket line, which on a chilly December day was at least a 20-30 minute time savings and would likely be considerably longer during peak season.

GO UNDERGROUND TO LEARN THE DARKER HISTORY OF EDINBURGH

Edinburgh may look pretty now, but it has a deep and sometimes dark history. Every street, close, and nook and cranny has a story to tell…even the underground ones!

To learn more about the world under Edinburgh we recommend a historic walking tour like the one we took with Mercat Tours of the Blair Street Underground Vaults. For a little over an hour, we wove our way through tiny alleys, that although only mere steps from the Royal Mile felt a world away and quite eerie at times, especially on the chilly winter night when we visited.

We then went underground and learned about the vaults from the knowledgeable guide who enthralled us with stories of the darker side of Edinburgh and how the area became home to the city’s most destitute inhabitants in the 1800s.

CLIMB TO THE TOP OF ARTHUR’S SEAT

Edinburgh is surrounded by three volcanic hills, with the biggest being Arthur’s Seat which towers 822 feet above the city and offers spectacular views, and interesting myths and legends.

For those with time and stamina, visitors can hike on the series of trails and tiers to the top. It is a steep hike so you’ll need good footwear and water, but the views on a clear day (up to 60 miles!) are worth it.

Since it takes upwards of a couple of hours to climb you may want to drive instead so you’ll have more time to visit other sights in the city. You can drive up to Dunsapie Loch and park and then walk the rest of the way to the top (about a 10-minute walk). As you are driving up there are also some look-out points along the way to pull over for a quick photo stop or a picnic lunch with a view of the city, as we chose to do.

Another option would be to time your visit to arrive before sunset so you can explore a little and then take some photos of the city bathed in the light of the setting sun.

TAKE THE TRAIN ACROSS THE FORTH BRIDGE

Built between 1882 and 1890, the Forth Bridge is about 9 miles west of Edinburgh city centre and spans the Firth of Forth. When it was constructed it was the world’s longest cantilever bridge spanning 2,529 metres. It still remains one of the greatest cantilever trussed bridges in the world.

The Forth Bridge is considered a symbol of Scotland and was voted Scotland’s greatest man-made wonder in 2016. It was also inscribed to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2015 which certainly caught my attention!

While we could have contented ourselves with a photo, we decided to “visit” this site by taking the passenger train across. We started at Dalmeny station, and for just a few £ we hopped on the train for a ride across to the station just on the other side of the bridge, and then back again. If you opt to do the same, be sure to check out the mosaic mural at the station while you’re waiting for your train back. It’s pretty cool!

ST. GILES CATHEDRAL

Dominating the High Street, you’ll find the flagship of the Church of Scotland (Scotland’s largest denomination) and historic home of Scottish Presbyterianism – St. Giles Cathedral. A Norman-style church was built here in 1125 but was destroyed by English invaders in 1385, leaving only the central piers supporting the tower as remains. The cathedral was then rebuilt with the crown spire completed in 1495, but much of the cathedral was since restored in the 19th century.

Over history, the cathedral was at the heart of the Scottish Reformation with John Knox serving as a minister from 1559 to 1572. His fiery sermons helped turn a Catholic Edinburgh into a decidedly Protestant city. Other figures that have played a part in the history of the church are the Jacobites, Bonnie Prince Charlie, and John Calvin.

Inside visitors are treated to intricate stained-glass windows and ceilings with ornate archways that can transport you back in time. The elaborately carved Gothic-style stalls have canopies with the helms and arms of the 16 knights. Look closely up in the vaulting and see if you can find the bagpipe playing angel. How Scottish eh?

Entrance to the cathedral is free (they do appreciate donations) but there is a small fee for a photo permit. For a more in-depth look at the history of the cathedral, they offer guided walking tours on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons for £5.50 (click here for tickets). Or for great views, you can opt for a guided rooftop tour. These tours can only take a maximum of four people and are £6.00 per person. Bookings are only made on the day for this tour.

TIP: To get the best (people-free) photos of the small square and church, make sure to arrive early before everyone is up and out on the Royal Mile. It’s a very busy spot!

BONUS: Right next to the church is the “Heart of the Midlothian” which is where you might fight people spitting on the street! There was, and still is, a tradition to spit on these stones that are arranged in a heart shape as this used to be the entrance to the Old Tollbooth, council buildings, and a jail. Here traitors were decapitated, criminals hanged, and witches burned!

EXPLORE BEAUTIFUL ROSSLYN CHAPEL

Just seven miles from Edinburgh you’ll find one of the most ornately carved and beautiful interiors of a building I have ever seen – Rosslyn Chapel.

The chapel was built in the mid-15th century for William St. Clair, the third Earl of Orkney. It is decorated with hundreds (if not thousands) of carvings rich in symbolic imagery such as flowers, vines, angels, biblical figures, the pagan “Green Man“, and other figures associated with Freemasonry and the Knights Templar. The patterned ceilings and walls have left scholars guessing about its symbolism for centuries, particularly if there is a link to the Knights Templar, Masons, and the mysterious quest for the Holy Grail. Most of the speculation, especially the connections to Dan Brown’s book “The Da Vinci Code“, have been debunked (it is still, however, a thrilling, fast-paced book to read).

Whether or not the hidden vaults beneath the chapel actually hold the Holy Grail, the head of John the Baptist, or the body of Christ himself, is certainly up for much debate. What isn’t up for debate though (at least in our opinion) is just how stunning and full of architectural design this chapel is.

PLEASE NOTE: There are no photos allowed inside the chapel, which is a shame because there is so much to take in it is hard to remember it all once back home.

WANDER THROUGH THE RUINS OF DUNFERMLINE ABBEY

Founded by David I in the 12th-century as a Benedictine monastery, Dunfermline Abbey was favoured by religious royals over the centuries and they are now buried here. Malcolm III married the exiled Saxon Princess Margaret, and now they are both interred at the abbey along with, probably the notable of all, Robert the Bruce, whose remains were discovered here in 1818.

The abbey is now in ruins but visitors can still explore the remnants of the impressive three-tiered refectory building (which is gorgeous in the early morning sunlight), the nave of the church with geometrically patterned columns and the Romanesque and Gothic windows. The abbey adjoins the beautiful 19th-century church where Robert the Bruce now lies under the ornate pulpit. Along the other side of the church is an old graveyard this is well worth a stroll through to see the weathered, moss-covered stones.

RESOURCES | PLAN YOUR WEEKEND IN EDINBURGH

• Rick Steves’  ‘Edinburgh TV Show‘ (whole episode)
• Rick Steves Audio Europe App: With this app, you can listen to many excerpts from his radio shows and books including a guided audio tour called “Edinburgh: Royal Mile Walk“.